This morning is one of the good mornings to be in Hong Kong. The niggling ‘homesickness’ has been all but eradicated thanks in no small part to the hard work of a very patient Holly Sharp. Also, I’m quite aware that I could well be falling in love and am hardly haunted by the prospect. What’s more, there will be no working and no commotion for me this weekend!
I rambled back towards the MTR at Sheung Wan (which aesthetically speaking is essentially the sky grasping equivalent of a European ‘Latin Quarter’ in Hong Kong) content in the coolness brought on by the northern monsoon.
On the train, I returned the occasional clandestine glance with a fleeting smile at those probably more interested in the seemingly radioactive beaker of fresh celery juice I was cradling than in my wearied but ebullient demeanour.
Arriving in Sham Shui Po, I noticed the dank humid frenzy had yet to realise itself and instead revelled a moment in the crisp dry morning and the sight of a metropolis slowly waking to another day of frantic existence. I’m barely stiffened by the sense of schadenfreude that envelops me knowing that I’ll be withdrawing from it completely…
Today, I will go cycling in my old stomping ground of Tin Shui Wai. Having been based right in the epicentre of this bustling commercial enterprise for the last couple of months it will be something of a gift to breathe and smell the freshness of the ‘country’ air.
The cycle route we will take imposes upon you an eclectic but settling collage of the sheer variety of experiences available in Hong Kong. For large parts of the ride, the grasping sprawl of the Kingswood Villas (my former and probably most memorable ever residence) keeps a watch over you as you progress along the river and out onto the Thai-like country roads. However, as you progress the behemoth structures become increasingly diminutive which adds to the illusion that you are truly leaving the city behind of an afternoon.
Ultimately, the relative ‘wilderness’ encourages complete ambivalence towards the occasional sight of the city in the distance. Rolling across the wetland park and out over the surrounding grasslands roots up memories of cycling free and uncaring out on the back roads towards Lunan as a wee boy but for the absence of the beautiful (if eternally frostbitten) beach at the end of the journey.
For of course, there naturally has to be a negating reminder that in fact you are never truly escaping the perpetual and brutal operation required to maintain a city of seven million people and incumbent aliens. Journeys end arrives at a water treatment plant on the fringes of Yuen Long and a stark reminder that the natural beauty you were so cruelly taken in by was almost entirely etched onto canvass by a decade or two of probably reluctant town planning.
Still, at least it is there and that’s good enough for me…
Later, we will visit the Thai restaurant which Simon and I formerly referred to as our kitchen. I know it will be as much of a comfort blanket as ever given that my visit after a two month absence in August stirred me to near euphoria!
“Ngoh yiu cheng ga-lay ow yok faan m goy!”
