In small Scottish towns, the only time people really gather together en masse is to daub graffiti on the walls of mosques saying ‘English Go Home’ (…?...) or to petrol bomb the family homes of suspected paedophiles and rumoured lottery winners. Moreover, it usually requires the death of an especially contemptible but wealthy relative and the promise of a free and luxurious wake banquet to encourage people to eat together in large numbers. Thankfully, this is not the case in Hong Kong.
The greatest opportunity for gluttony in Hong Kong presents itself in the many delectable ‘all you can eat hotpot’ restaurants generously splashed throughout the territory. These restaurants are essentially bruised retail units within irreversibly paralysed shopping malls but benefit quite remarkably form the delusional grandeur offered by a few rolls of chintz and a generous smattering of garish stereotypical Canton artworks…
The hotpot itself is essentially a boiling pot of stock which sits on a table-top cooker and bubbles busily into the night. The needlessly discerning customer then deliberates over which delicacies they would like to add to it and boil the bejaysus out of during the four hours of culinary insanity…
The food typically arrives as part of a sumptuously stacked mountain which is placed beside your table with the implied instruction to do whatever the hell you like with it. There are meatballs, strips of meat, meat on sticks, sticks on meat and even meat wrapped around meatballs. Oh yeah… There’s also a large array of vegetables and noodles on offer should you require some obstacles in your search for meat!
Meat, meatety, meat meat!
Hotpot is also a mightily educational experience. For example, I found out the other day that one of the worst deaths a prawn can have is to have a big stick ramned up through the arsehole region until it is poking through the scrambled brain before waiting an intolerable time for the apathetic gourmand to slop you mercilessly into the boiling bisque of doom. Worse still is the prolonged and agonising ascension to crustacean Nirvana should the stock be at a less than piping temperature!
Furthermore, it has taught me that if you are not careful, you could easily end up eating balls! Not the (arguably) harmless meatballs discussed earlier but actual ‘and this is where babies come from…’ balls! I’m confident the underlying sociology of my displeasure at the thought of indulging in balls is apparent enough to not require further discussion. But suffice to say, I just don’t want to be confronted with the realisation that something which personally brings me so much pleasure and potentially so much pain tastes ‘a little bit like beancurd’…
The very mention of beancurd inspires me to offer a warning that, if you are someone who believes appearance and taste must align when it comes to food then hotpot may not be for you. As mouth-watering as it all looks when it arrives at the table, almost everything comes out of the soup looking like old clothes being dredged from a murky muddied river. The prime example of this is beancurd sheet which at the best of times looks like old womanly forearm skin. It’s hard to salivate when this jaundiced mass is gingerly ladled from the soup and then carelessly flopped into your bowl like a mangled prostate in the hands of a keyhole-surgeon…
Of course, there is an additional element to the hotpot gathering which renders any interest in the appearance of your food irrelevant. And that joyous extra is ‘all you can drink’ beer! Admittedly, the beer is of questionable origin and may simply be the fermented piss of mainland alcoholics. However, I can guarantee that it really does the number on you when liberally consumed between portions of sheep meat and potentially dead crayfish.
But ultimately, the real jewel in the crown of the hotpot gathering is the opportunity to converge together in a civil but merry round table formation and get down to some seriously good nattering. The eclectic mix of western and local people I’m fortunate enough to enjoy these evenings with makes for some really good times and I find as I leave the ‘mutton dressed as lamb’ restaurants I’m already looking forward to my next hotpot experience…
But if you think I’ll be eating balls you can suck my beancurds!...